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      你的位置:首頁 > 新聞動態 > 公司新聞

      CHANEL正在迎來一個新的起點是否能繼續保持獨立倍受業界關注

      2019/6/12 10:50:03      點擊:

      YKK拉鏈www.www.suryaabaditek.com根據時尚業務更新的創意總監Karl Lagerfeld 2月去世,關于香奈兒路易威登的謠言母公司路易威登再次出價,路易威登首席財務官Jean - Jacques Guion上周在一個封閉的分析師會議上回答說,當前業務規模香奈兒、估值接近1000億歐元,超過500億歐元被媒體猜測,這是對任何買主是一個巨大的挑戰。

          2017年底,據法國媒體報道,LVMH集團總裁伯納德·阿爾諾(Bernard Arnault)會見了香奈兒(CHANEL)的所有者沃特海默(Wertheimer)家族。然而,伯納德•阿爾諾(Bernard Arnault)后來回應稱,YKK拉鏈該集團從未聯系過香奈兒。

          截至上周五,LVMH的市值為1,806億歐元,古馳(Gucci)的母公司開云集團(kering group)和愛馬仕(hermes)的市值分別為600億歐元和644億歐元,使香奈兒成為僅次于LVMH的全球第二大奢侈品集團。

          其他人認為香奈兒可能已經成為世界上最昂貴的個人奢侈品牌,畢竟LVMH擁有70多個品牌,開云集團的主要業務由三個核心品牌組成:古馳、圣羅蘭和寶緹嘉。

      香奈兒尚未對這些指控做出回應上海YKK拉鏈,但該品牌一再表示,它不會出售,也不會尋求IPO,這一點不會改變。

          重要的一點是,香奈兒發布了首次自愿公開年度財務報告在20186108年前成立以來,年銷售額96.2億美元,營業利潤為26.9億美元,凈利潤18億美元,2017,強調品牌目前還沒有債務和現金16億美元。在奢侈品行業,品牌仍然占據著不容置疑的地位。

      美妝已經成為香奈兒的搖錢樹,從美妝彈出店,到推出首款男士美妝,該品牌在美妝業務上的舉措越來越頻繁

          香奈兒最初是由加布里埃爾•香奈兒(Gabrielle Chanel)在皮埃爾•韋特海默(Pierre Wertheimer)的投資下創立的,韋特海默只持有該公司10%的股份,后來韋特海默家族收購了該公司。如今,香奈兒集團的所有者是皮埃爾•韋特海默的孫子阿蘭•韋特海默和杰拉德•韋特海默。彭博社估計,沃特海默兄弟將在2016年獲得34億美元的股息。他們的總財富目前約為460億美元。

          令人困惑的是,從他們的管理傳承到卡爾拉格菲爾德(Karl Lagerfeld)的創意總監的傳承,這對兄弟倆長期以來一直對繼承人保密,這引發了人們的猜測,即沃特海默(Wertheimer)家族有意收購香奈兒集團。

          伯納德•阿爾諾(Bernard Arnault)的獨生女戴爾芬•阿爾諾(Delphine Arnault)今年加入了董事會。現年43歲的她是董事會最年輕的成員,被視為可能的繼任者。

          盡管保持低調,韋特海默家族仍然嚴格控制著該集團。2016年,香奈兒(CHANEL)首席執行官莫琳•奇凱(Maureen Chiquet)因與沃特海默(Wertheimer)家族在戰略上存在分歧而被解雇。香奈兒董事長阿蘭•韋特海默(Alain Wertheimer)現在是該品牌的首席執行官,布魯諾•帕夫洛夫斯基(Bruno Pavlovsky)是香奈兒時尚部門的首席執行官。阿蘭·韋特海默(Alain Wertheimer)將近70歲,身體狀況仍然很好,幾乎每五分鐘就會有新的想法出現,該品牌的首席財務官菲利普·布隆迪奧(Philippe Blondiaux)在接受采訪時說。

        Philippe Blondiaux坦承,集團內部對是否要公開業績數據這一問題進行了長期的內部爭議,但面對競爭越來越激烈的大環境,保守不應該成為CHANEL進一步發展的絆腳石。 集團意識到現在是時候把數據擺在公眾眼前,以此證明其是一家擁有非常強勁財務狀況。去年,CHANEL宣布了一項重大的重組計劃,YKK拉鏈將把旗下所有業務規整到同一個部門管理,并遷至英國倫敦,以提升運營效率。

        不過,Karl Lagerfeld的離世為CHANEL的未來增添了更多不確定性,目前接管創意大權的是與Karl Lagerfeld共事30多年的Virginie Viard

        Bruno Pavlovsky在上月舉辦的CHANEL早春度假系列大秀前接受媒體采訪時表示,Virginie Viard正試圖把自己對品牌的理解和感悟融入到CHANEL的設計中,同時延續Karl Lagerfeld對品牌的期許,把傳奇與當代的審美相結合,“但她需要時間建立自信,作為Karl Lagerfeld的接班人需要承受巨大的壓力”。

        與此同時,CHANEL還在不斷尋找新的增長點,繼去年8月在韓國推出首個男士美妝系列后,9月入駐由國內潮流集團YOHO!推出的潮流集會活動YOHOOD設置體驗區。今年3月,CHANEL首次發布與長期品牌大使Pharrell Williams合作推出的男裝膠囊系列,有分析表示在男裝市場快速發展的現狀下,這可能是CHANEL進軍男裝市場的信號。

        據商業情報機構L2 Inc數據上海YKK拉鏈,自2009年以來,男裝銷售額的增長速度就超過了女裝銷售額的增長速度,而根據歐睿信息咨詢公司的數據,男裝銷售額預計在未來六年內超過女裝銷售額。

        或許是擔憂品牌形象會因Karl Lagerfeld的去世而在年輕消費者心中進一步弱化,CHANEL4月正式發布聲明表示,其品牌商標寫法為全部大寫的CHANEL,運用在包括高級定制、成衣、配飾、香水等品牌全線業務,同時創始人傳奇設計師Coco Chanel女士的名字也應用大寫表示,努力將品牌打造為專有名詞。

        今年4月至6月,該品牌還在上海西岸藝術中心舉辦了Mademoiselle Privé走進香奈兒展覽,通過與法國巴黎總部高度相似的裝置與布局為參觀者打造了一個極度沉浸的體驗,目的是培養更多的潛在消費者。

        據悉,CHANEL今年會繼續公開業績報告,Bruno Pavlovsky透露2018年又是業績超出預期的一年。對于CHANEL巴黎門店因“黃背心”們而被迫關閉了一個多月是否會對業績造成影響這一問題, Bruno Pavlovsky認為重點不在于銷售上面,而是在服務上會令忠實消費者感到困擾上海YKK拉鏈,因為CHANEL關店而無法及時滿足他們的需求。

        保持神秘的同時偶爾亮劍,不失為CHANEL的一種聰明打法,也意味著奢侈品行業是一場極需智慧的競爭。

        據時尚商業快訊數據,在2017年趕超愛馬仕的Gucci去年再創業績新紀錄,首次進入80億歐元俱樂部,而Bernard Arnault也首次披露核心品牌Louis Vuitton業績,去年銷售額錄得100億歐元,二者僅相差20億歐元。

        今年第一季度,LVMH銷售額同比大漲16%125億歐元,超過分析師預期的122億歐元,有機增長達11%,旗下擁有Louis VuittonDIOR等奢侈品牌的時裝皮具部門銷售額大漲20%51.1億歐元,創下5年來新高,YKK拉鏈去年同期的有機增幅為16%

        在截至331日的三個月內,開云集團收入則繼續受到核心品牌Gucci業績的推動,同比大漲21.9%37.85億歐元。其中,Gucci銷售額大漲24.6%23.26億歐元,但增速較上一年同期的37.9%大幅放緩,但在包括中國的亞太市場零售額增幅為35%,主要得益于中國消費者的貢獻。

        愛馬仕第一財季銷售額則同比大漲16%16.1億歐元,按固定匯率計算增長12%,超過該公司此前預期的10%,但主要受手袋產量增加推動。期內愛馬仕涵蓋手袋的皮具部門銷售額大漲16.9%8.08億歐元,手表業務則成為本季度增速最快的部門,按固定匯率計算大漲22%4340萬歐元。

        據英國數據情報公司Brand Finance發布的全球500個最有價值品牌的年度排名榜單,在中國消費者和中國市場的強勁推動下,CHANELDIORCartierLouis Vuitton等奢侈品牌的品牌價值從2018年到2019年均有顯著提升,其中增長最快的是CHANEL,該品牌價值在過去一年中猛漲95.1%,排名從上一年的第299名躍升至149名。Gucci和愛馬仕的排名則未發生變化,分別位列第182名和第163名。

        當創新和消費群體的劇烈變化成為共識,也意味著轉折點已經到來,Louis VuittonCHANELGucci銷售數據不斷拉近,這場頭號奢侈品牌的爭霸戰將愈演愈烈。YKK樹脂拉鏈上海YKK拉鏈


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