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      维密内衣霸主地位岌岌可危 美国市场份额仅剩24%

      2019/5/23 10:42:54      点击:

      YKK拉链www.www.suryaabaditek.com】经过30多年的辉煌岁月,维多利亚的秘密正处于其历史上最关键的时刻。

         从更换ceo到重新推出泳装系列,再到决定不举办年度秀,美国内衣品牌“维多利亚的秘密”(Victorias secret)的演变变得更加频繁,但其背后的现实却是残酷的。根据Coresight Research发布的一份报告,该公司去年在美国的市场份额从2013年的31.7%降至24%,而ThirdloveSavage x Fenty等新兴竞争对手的市场份额则从2013年的28.1%升至36.2%

          与此同时,耐克(Nike)、阿迪达斯(adidas)和露露柠檬(Lululemon)等体育品牌也在进军内衣市场,前三名占据0.2%的市场份额YKK拉链Coresight Research在报告中表示,不断变化的市场趋势和新兴的竞争对手是维密业绩下滑的主要原因。

          该报告还强调了人工智能和其他技术的兴起,在过去十年中,消费者对性感的定义发生了变化,舒适和健身成为内衣的新需求。

          陈由奥利弗·考恩身体分析维度的业务,经过深入的研究成果和Coresight研究,超过一半的受访者看到d会认为“性感”,55%的这群人认为舒适的内衣在选购时的决定因素,ThirdLove猛禽,崇拜我,True&Co等品牌的崛起完全证实了这一趋势,这些诞生于互联网的品牌还具有能够实时控制数据并提供及时反馈的优势上海YKK拉链,这使得它们比维多利亚的秘密(Victoria's secret)等传统内衣零售商更能灵活地应对市场变化。

          fashiontoutiao.com的数据,美国鹰牌(American Eagle)内衣品牌Aerie最近一个季度的可比销售额增长32%,去年首次进入这个5亿美元的俱乐部。去年第四季度,该公司销售额从上年同期的26.68亿美元下降5.1%,至25.31亿美元,同店销售额下降3%,全年收入下降0.17%,至73.75亿美元。

          与维密的性感路线相反,Aerie没有性感的超模或夸张的蕾丝产品。相反,所有形状和大小的模特都被邀请参加广告活动。甚至孕妇的妊娠纹也印在广告上,鼓励女性勇敢地“取悦自己”。

          为了全力支持维密的复兴,L Brands从去年开始关闭了百年奢侈手袋品牌Henri Bendel,并出售了加拿大内衣品牌La Senza。该公司还宣布,将把股东权益减半,并节省3.25亿美元的债务。由于业绩惨淡,维密全年净利润同比下降34.5%,至6.4亿美元。即使在收到维权投资者巴林顿资本公司(Barington Capital)的一封公开信,敦促该公司分拆之后,维密也从未动摇过。

          首席财务官Stuart Burgdoerfer在年度收益报告发布后的电话会议上表示,他将继续大力投资推广维多利亚的秘密,同时积极关闭多余的门店。截至22日的财年,维密已经关闭了30家门店,今年还将关闭北美地区的53家门店。考恩说,公司有150家多余的商店应该被淘汰。

          在过去的十年里,维密已经开设了820家门店,关闭了673家,并将转播权出售给了130家。维密关闭门店并没有阻止其国际扩张的步伐YKK拉链。继2017年大举进军中国市场后,该公司去年在秘鲁、法国和意大利开设了新的全品类门店。

          面对日益拥挤的跟踪内衣市场,斯图尔特Burgdoerfer选择玩一个乐观的态度,并认为莎莉将专注于产品差异化,只要产品特殊,独特,时尚和有足够的新品牌内衣领域仍有很大潜力,所以未来的发展重心的维数也将返回产品。

        早期时尚新闻网络报道,d不是经济增长的主要驱动力,如核心业务,但美容化妆品和饰品,扭转这种情况下,新任首席执行官约翰·Mehas的第一步是推出一个泳装系列,刺激集团股价上涨3%,瑞银(ubs)分析师是一个积极的信号。维密曾经是维密最赚钱的业务之一,但由于品牌战略的改变,该品牌在2016年暂停了泳装业务,导致该年销售额下降5亿美元。

          218,d秘密还有待与法国合作设计师内衣品牌李维新的高端内衣系列产品,价格从50美元到近500美元,主要通过品牌在线平台和新邦德街的纽约第五大道和伦敦d旗舰店销售,这是第一次d秘密在店内销售其他品牌产品。

      有趣的是,当耐克(Nike)和阿迪达斯(adidas)等体育巨头进军内衣市场时,维密(Victoria's secret)也在加速向运动装领域扩张。在John Mehas的重组计划中,运动休闲类也成为了今年维密的重点之一。

          然而,一些分析人士认为,要想夺回失去的市场份额,维密需要做的改变远远不止产品本身。随着“性感”边际效应的递减,维密品牌的商业价值已经濒临破产。

          第一家店于1977年成立,并于1995年首次d大节目主持人,d关闭所有在“性感”作为主要的卖点,也是女性消费者的眼睛请男士内裤品牌,营销手法无处不在的女权主义,当前过时,煽动消费者负面情绪的风险。

          2014年,维密(Victorias secret)的口号“完美身材”(The Percect Body)遭到消费者的抨击,该口号被指向下一代女性传达健康的态度。一位母亲说,她从小就教育女儿要有良好的饮食和休息习惯。然而,像维多利亚的秘密这样几乎每天都会出现的广告,实际上已经影响了青少年的心理。

          去年,维密的首席营销官艾德·拉扎克(Ed Razek)在维密秀结束后接受采访时发表了评论,维密的品牌因此跌至谷底。他向《Vogue》杂志的编辑承认,该品牌对大码或跨性别模特不感兴趣。随后,澳大利亚大码模特罗宾·劳利(Robyn Lawley)在网站上发表请愿书,呼吁抵制维密“狭隘的审美”时装秀,并在Instagram等社交媒体上发起了“我们都是天使”的话题。

        或许是意识到了问题的严重性,维密在Instagram上的官方账号简介已改为“Confidence is Sex(自信即性感)”,意味着品牌DNA正逐渐向鼓励女性消费者转变。在过去两年中,维密也借助健身潮流的兴起,YKK拉链通过宣扬超模保持健康身材的生活方式,制造新的话题点。

        L Brands董事长兼首席执行官Leslie Wexner更在本月初给内部员工的一封信中表示将对维密秀作出重大调整,并强调时尚是一项不断变化的产业,必须通过发展和变革才能成长,电视和网络已经不适合播放大秀,将对传统维密秀进行重新评估,2019年以后会寻求新的形式。

        Leslie Wexner还坦承,维密大秀热度的下滑以及业绩的低迷不仅受到了Aerie等新兴内衣品牌的影响,更是他们对大码女性内衣市场的忽略,加快了市场份额的流失。

        据时尚头条网数据,维密大秀2015年的收视率暴跌30%,收看人数骤降至659万人。2016年,观看维密大秀的18岁至49岁观众收视率仅为2.1,较2015年的2.3又减少了9%2017年,维密上海大秀收视率则大跌30%,总观众数不足500万,其中1849岁观众收视率仅为1.5。而去年由ABC负责播出的维密大秀收视率延续下滑趋势,总观众数跌至32万,其中1849岁观众收视率仅0.9

        对于维密大秀的下一步计划,L Brands未透露更多消息,Leslie Wexner则在备忘录中表示,2019年他们将专注数字化的发展上海YKK拉链。两周前,该集团已注册了一个新的商标“First Love”,被业界视为维密对标互联网内衣品牌Third Love的一个举动。

        截至目前,维密母公司L Brands拒绝就维密市场份额下跌作出回应,但一位发言人用集团全年财报中的一张幻灯片说明,维密在InstagramTwitterFacebook等社交媒体平台的粉丝远超过Adore MeAerieThirdLove等竞争对手。

        他以Instagram为例,维密的粉丝数已超过6600万,而Aerie仅为110万,Adore MeThirdLove的粉丝数分别为42.6万和27.2万,强调更多的社交媒体曝光意味着更多的消费者能够接触到并购买维密产品。

        Aerie全球品牌总裁Jen Foyle则认为,尽管维密一天的销量就赶上其一年的销量,但趋势的变化是不争的事实,并透露在20181月到20191月期间带有#AerieReal标签的贴文数量从8.8万迅速增加到15.4万个帖子,到5月这个数字又迅速增加至17.95万。曾参与维密第一场大秀的超模Veronica Webb也向女装日报透露,Aerie是她和女儿目前最爱的内衣品牌。

        不过,Veronica Webb同时指出,无论是现在的Aerie还是当年的维密,人们都无法轻易地作出定论到底谁才是现在的主流,毕竟时尚是个轮回,如今倡导舒适的内衣趋势实际上和6070年代时相似,“钟摆或将在10年后再次摆动,时尚就像女人一样多变。”

        可以肯定的是,维密已经站在了改革的十字路口,经过一系列的密集调整,投资者对L Brands新财年第一季度的成绩单寄予高度关注YKK拉链。对于该集团将于周三每股收盘后发布的业绩报告,分析师们主要持谨慎态度。

        彭博社分析师预计,L Brands或在截至420日的第一季度内实现收支平衡,销售额将从上一季度的48亿美元减少至25亿美元,与上一年同期持平。 Wedbush分析师Jen Redding则在5月初发布的一份报告中写道,Pink系列或成为维密第一季度业绩报告的亮点。富国银行高级分析师Ike Boruchow则预计,维密的全新举措在短期内将不会有明显成效,最快也要到今年下半年才能见到端弥。

        近一年来,L Brands股价累积跌幅已超过33%,目前市值约为62亿美元,创5年来新低。苏州仁翔YKK拉链公司与上海YKK拉链,大连YKK拉链,深圳YKK拉链长期建立合作关系,苏州仁翔YKK拉链公司拥有绝对的厂家配合资源,长期为全国服装服饰及外贸公司及企业提供最专业的售前,销售及售后服务。YKK树脂拉链上海YKK拉链


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