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      沒了女魔頭Anna Wintour 康泰納仕集團會怎樣

      2019/8/5 11:55:30      點擊:

      YKK拉鏈www.www.suryaabaditek.com溫圖爾是個完美主義者,但她的任期并不完美。許多人質疑馬里奧•特斯蒂諾和帕特里克Demarchelier與時尚攝影師# MeToo長期合作行動性侵犯后他被指控性騷擾模型之前,她的朋友哈維•韋恩斯坦也被性虐待的丑聞——為什么她不采取任何措施,這種令人不安的行為,積極保護他們的主導時裝模特從弱側的性侵犯。YKK拉鏈更重要的是,作為藝術總監,她試圖把一種vogue式的美學帶到conde nast的其他雜志(比如Self),但效果不是特別好。

      此外,《Vogue》的報道經常引發爭議。例如,2011年,《Vogue》雜志對敘利亞第一夫人阿斯瑪·阿薩德(Asma al-assad)大加吹捧,引發眾怒,最近還暗示卡拉·迪瓦伊(Cara Delevigne)的同性戀取向只會持續一段時間。但這一爭議并未阻止廣告商。據稱,《Vogue》經受住了印刷廣告客戶流失的沖擊,2017年康泰納仕集團(conde nast)為此損失了1.5億美元,遠遠好于其旗下許多其他時尚雜志。隨著各大雜志爭奪新的收入來源,溫圖爾的Met Gala已成為《Vogue》品牌中最具影響力和魅力的部分上海YKK拉鏈。幾十年來,溫圖爾煞費苦心地將娛樂與時尚融為一體,打造了一場視覺盛宴。盡管晚會籌集的資金將捐給大都會藝術博物館的時裝屋,但名人和設計師們仍在爭奪邀請函,邀請函由溫圖爾自己保管,而《Vogue》雜志在晚會上的內容可能是最賺錢的。

      安娜·溫圖爾最終離開后,康泰納仕集團將會發生什么?

      溫圖爾離職的傳聞已經流傳多年,尤其是去年春天,《紐約時報》發表了一篇2000字的文章,題為《想象安娜離開后的世界》。有一點是肯定的:她的退出在任何時候都是不可避免的。

      溫圖爾的離開將給康泰納仕集團留下許多空白。最重要的是,公司將失去她作為強有力的意見領袖的地位,失去她讓時尚品牌和其他時尚娛樂人士感到有必要參加她和Vogue組織的活動的能力。溫圖爾離開后,大都會藝術博物館的盛會也將失去其首席策劃人,或許還會失去一些重要意義。

      因此,盡管康泰納仕集團(conde nast)等公司向她支付數百萬美元的薪水、服裝津貼和其他費用似乎是不明智的,但讓她離開,讓她繼續為下一位雇主創造價值,可能就更不明智了。

       安娜•溫圖爾(Anna Wintour)4月份的康泰納仕集團(Conde Nast)前沿活動上表現出色。舞臺看起來像她的辦公室,她坐在桌子后面回答觀眾預先準備好的問題,在YouTube熱門系列節目Go Ask Anna的現場版中,YKK拉鏈公眾可以用預先錄制的視頻對她進行測試。該系列節目是年度活動的核心內容,媒體公司試圖通過明星表演和新鮮小吃,將廣告買家吸引到自己的網絡、視頻中來,這表明她將繼續以一種新的、必要的形式展現自己的影響力,繼續為康泰納仕帶來收入。

      她制作這樣一部電視劇的能力證明了她的名氣和文化影響力。還有哪位雜志編輯能坐在辦公室里對著鏡頭說話,吸引成千上萬的眼球呢?還有誰像《Vogue》美國版編輯、康泰納仕集團(conde nast)的藝術總監溫圖爾(Wintour)這樣,有足夠的知名度和責任感,會花時間去考慮內容創作的細節?

      這部電視劇不僅突出了溫圖爾的職業道德,這是那些與她共事過的人所欽佩的,而且她在傳媒業的影響力越來越大。隨著經濟回報的不斷下降上海YKK拉鏈,傳媒業對人才的需求比以往任何時候都要大。盡管康泰納仕近年來遭受了巨大的財務損失,但它為留住溫圖爾而支付的薪水——可能至少每年幾百萬美元——很可能至少和她為公司創造的價值一樣高。赫斯特集團或許正在擁抱“花花公子”編輯時代的終結,但溫圖爾給了康泰納仕集團一個存在的理由。

      溫圖爾自1988年以來一直擔任美國《Vogue》雜志的編輯,她喜歡講述自己拍攝的第一張封面與她的前任格蕾絲米拉貝拉(Grace Mirabella)有多么不同,以至于這家印刷公司打電話來詢問是否出了什么問題。米拉貝拉設計了一個從未出錯的封面拍攝,并持續了一個月又一個月,在她17年的任期內,《Vogue》的發行量翻了三倍。但她的封面可能太不原創了,每次都是模特頭部的特寫,發型和妝容完美無瑕,所以“大老板”S.I.紐豪斯想要改變這種趨勢,讓它與《Elle》保持競爭。席位后編輯控制拍攝第一個封面,有一個模型的身體穿著價值10000美元(約合人民幣70000)的基督教Lacroix牌毛衣,下身搭配50美元(340)猜牛仔褲,一頭亂蓬蓬的頭發走在大街上,笑容——這是很常見的在今天的街頭照片圖像。雖然將設計師的作品與商場品牌混搭的想法在今天并不新鮮,但在當時卻令人震驚。

        Wintour 的影響力就此飆升。她很早就覺察出了時尚和名人文化之間的關聯,于是開始讓明星登上《Vogue》的封面,1989 年麥當娜就是當時著名的封面人物。盡管把明星作為雜志封面人物已經成了一種慣用手法,但 Wintour 在構建和利用名人與時尚產業融合發展方面發揮了重要作用,當時這種融合發展并不像今天這么明顯。如今,許多時尚圈和娛樂圈的圈外人士都知道,明星會借禮服去參加奧斯卡頒獎典禮,他們穿的禮服可能來自其代言的品牌商,也可能是通過其他付款方式拿到的。

        1997 年,也就是 Wintour 擔任主編將近 10 年的時候,當時《Vogue》的出版商 Ronald Galotti 向《紐約時報》吹噓,稱那一年預計能夠給《Vogue》帶來史上最優異的財務業績。設計師們希望出現在《Vogue》雜志上,YKK拉鏈并得到雜志的認可。Wintour 承認,決定在《Vogue》上刊登哪些品牌時,她更青睞廣告商(盡管她也宣傳過當時沒有廣告預算的 Marc Jacobs)。在時尚界,能得到她的認可,并能接觸到她或她的編輯團隊,就會前途無量(看看 Jacobs 現在的大好形勢),這也是品牌愿意為此花錢投廣告的原因。

        當然,如今,即便是《Vogue》這種級別的平面雜志,其影響力都趕不上 1990 年代末或 2000 年代初,當時康泰納仕集團推出了第一批網站上海YKK拉鏈。該公司的高管們不知道數字媒體會變得這么重要,他們只允許這些網站被用來增加印刷版收入和發行量,而沒有強迫他們的明星編輯(包括 Wintour)將網站變成繁忙的工作場所和興旺的生意。

        高管們認為互聯網可以被忽視,互聯網不可能像平面媒體那樣得到同等程度的關注,這種態度會成為該公司最大的問題。盡管 Wintour 將這一點和公司的其他失誤全都攬在自己身上,但這種誤判并不是她一個人的錯。雖然與其他媒體公司有遠見的編輯相比,她在支持《Vogue》數字版方面反應遲緩,但根據《哈佛商業評論》的案例研究,到 2013 年,她每周二都會找網絡團隊開會,敲定數字版發布的具體內容,而且每天晚上她都會花時間瀏覽網站,就像當年瀏覽雜志那樣。此外,即使是早期采用互聯網的雜志也面臨著同樣的威脅:Facebook Google 為數字廣告收入而操控市場。YKK樹脂拉鏈上海YKK拉鏈

        


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