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      皮草業也找網紅合作 YKK拉鏈分析這事靠譜嗎

      2019/7/22 10:34:17      點擊:

      YKK拉鏈www.www.suryaabaditek.com專家們一致認為,佐賀要想遏制日益高漲的反皮草情緒,就必須在網上展開辯論。品牌咨詢公司Interbrand戰略總監漢娜•卡邁伊(Hannah Kamaie)表示,佐賀皮草可能難以向消費者提供信息。

          “網絡名人社區和終端消費者并不是他們所認識的粉絲,”她說。他們需要考慮他們的客戶是誰,并試著從他們的角度與他們交談YKK拉鏈。他們的客戶不是最終用戶,他們是品牌,是公司,是決策者。”

          與此同時,動物權利活動人士繼續他們的反皮草運動。

          “消費者不會被愚弄,”美國人道協會(Humane Society of The United States)時裝政策主管PJ史密斯(PJ Smith)在談到布里揚博的活動時說。事實上,消費者根本不想要給動物帶來極度痛苦的產品,而聰明的企業正在改變他們的方式,而不是固守過去。”

          當然,由網紅推廣的膠囊系列不太可能大幅提升皮草銷量,足以抵消全球政治和經濟力量的影響。然而,正如國際毛皮聯合會(international fur federation)首席執行官馬克•奧頓(Mark Oaten)所指出的,營銷不僅僅是銷售。它是關于建立意識,關于與你現有的團隊一起不斷培育業務前景。

          “你為什么要向消費者做廣告?”原因有很多,其中之一就是簡單的售后服務。“這是為了讓消費者對自己做出的購買決定感到舒適。”

           在佐格皮草總部的一個圓形劇場里,數百名身穿白大褂的男性和少數女性正在審閱拍賣文件,并策劃贏得正在拍賣的貂皮、狐貍皮和浣熊皮的策略。

          今天是佐賀為期一周的拍賣會的第四天。拍賣每季度舉行一次,皮草買家聚在一起囤積皮草。投標人來自世界各地。他們購買的皮草將用于芬迪(Fendi)外套、圣羅蘭(Saint Laurent)圍巾和其他奢侈品。

          一個投標人從人群中脫穎而出。火女,誰炫耀了一個脆的黑色波波頭和一件銀色夾克,旨在藍色陰影狐貍毛皮。火女,真名付志恩YKK拉鏈,是中國一家成立兩年的皮草電子商務公司的創始人,該公司去年的銷售額為2.2億元人民幣。她來到芬蘭是為了競拍“頂級皮草”,頂級皮草通常是激烈競價的目標。這位消防隊員以1050歐元(約合8000元人民幣)的價格拍下了這只“藍影”狐貍,而不那么稀有的狐貍皮平均售價為80歐元。

          但是,盡管在拍賣會上有這么多熱議,這些皮草的價格卻從未如此不確定過。據貿易組織國際毛皮協會(IFF)稱,全球毛皮銷售額從2015年的400億美元暴跌至去年的330億美元。

      據國際皮草協會(IFF)稱,皮草銷售商將此歸咎于中國市場的放緩。中國市場占全球皮草銷量的近一半(不包括火女士和她在微博上的405500多名粉絲)。中國經歷了一場典型的繁榮與蕭條:本世紀初,隨著需求和價格的飆升,農民開始飼養更多的狐貍和水貂。當經濟增長放緩時,該行業留下的大量庫存仍在消化之中。

      我們必須確保皮草被視為時尚元素。

          直到最近,該行業還可能依賴于西方不斷增長的業務。但歐洲和美國的政治挑戰正威脅著生產和貿易。就在兩周前,愛爾蘭效仿挪威、盧森堡和比利時宣布分階段禁止毛皮養殖。挪威、盧森堡和比利時去年都實施了禁令。洛杉磯和舊金山正在禁止皮草銷售,紐約市議會也在考慮類似的法律。

          在過去兩年中,動物權利活動人士成功地迫使GucciMichael KorsBurberry等頂級奢侈品牌停止使用皮草。各大品牌繼續加入這場運動——最近的一次是普拉達(Prada),該公司在5月份表示將停止使用皮草。

          盡管皮草行業可能會獨自挺過這些危機中的一場,但各種威脅的負面影響已經開始顯現。在201412月的一場拍賣會上上海YKK拉鏈,這只藍色影子狐貍以高出40%的價格售出。與此同時,芬蘭的浣熊毛皮價格下跌了一半以上,平均價格為63歐元(490元人民幣)。總體而言,佐賀最近一個財年的拍賣收入下降28%,至3.14億歐元。

      在困境中,皮草行業正在尋找一條提振價格的途徑。最新的策略是什么?向有影響力的網絡名人尋求支持。

        Saga Furs Bryanboy 的合作款 | 圖片來源: 對方提供

        今年,Saga 聘請 Bryan Grea Yambao(他在 Instagram 上的昵稱 Bryanboy 更加廣為人知)設計一組以皮草為主題的膠囊系列。第一個五件套系列于 4  月份在 Luisa Via Roma 悄然上市,他們還計劃在秋季推出更為強勁的營銷活動。第二個系列規模更大,預計要到明年才發布。

        Saga 極少直接將皮草賣給消費者;作為皮草業的第二大拍賣行,它的主要業務是聯結皮草養殖戶與買家,并從每筆交易中收取傭金,以此來盈利。但非常時期必須采取非常措施。

        Saga Furs 主管時裝的業務總監 Tia Matthews 表示:“我們必須確保皮草被視作時尚的元素。我們無法投入數億美元在這方面做全球性的廣告宣傳活動,所以我們必須采取的措施是,找有影響力的網紅好好談談,以這種方式探討公司的商業前景。”

        Saga Furs 長期在幕后與時尚界開展合作,資助學生,并將設計師帶到其位于哥本哈根的創新與設計機構YKK拉鏈。但 T 臺秀的影響力正在減弱,Instagram 已經成為各大品牌爭奪消費者注意力的新戰場。皮草的銷售近年來也發生了巨大的變化。消費者不再渴望擁有 T 臺上的某一件貂皮大衣,而是越來越喜歡拾掇自己的皮草,比如在 Canada Goose 夾克的風帽上加上郊狼毛鑲邊,或者掛上 Fendi 狐皮鑰匙扣。

        皮草業仍然有不少支持者。包括 Gucci Prada 在內的許多禁用皮草的品牌表示,它們幾乎沒有在使用這種料子。根據歐睿信息咨詢公司(Euromonitor)的數據,美國市場的銷售額已穩步增長,去年達到了 5.31 億美元(約 37 億元人民幣),高于 2013 年的 3.27 億美元(約 23 億元人民幣)。

        赫維茨出口公司(Hurwitz Exports)是總部設在英國的大型皮草供應商,總經理 Steven Hurwitz 曾赴芬蘭參加過 Saga 拍賣會,他說:“我們這類企業不靠遍布全球的Prada Gucci 等奢侈品牌生存。我們依托的是龐大的經濟總量。我是個商品交易商……我們依賴的是龐大的市場。”他還表示,像中國這樣的大市場放緩需求,對皮草業的打擊是沉重的。

        向有影響力者尋求幫助的活動是為了提升皮草在中國境外的人氣。Saga 2015 年開始與有影響力的網紅開展合作,最初的目的是為了增加其在社交媒體上的粉絲數量。最近,前往氣溫驟降至零下 20 攝氏度的拉普蘭(Lapland)的奢華之旅頗受歡迎。拉普蘭之行是與戶外服飾品牌 Yves Salomon Moose Knuckles 合作舉辦的。

        Saga 的策略是推廣皮草作為人造皮草的可持續的替代品。人造皮草通常由塑料制成。專家表示,這個想法很難在社交媒體上傳播開來。

        Bernstien 高級奢侈品分析師 Luca Solca 表示:“必須公開動物在養殖過程中受到的待遇,這個計劃才會得到支持。如何才能讓消費者或品牌脫穎而出?如何才能讓消費者或品牌意識到他們/它們正在使用或穿著可持續的皮草?”

        Bryanboy 的客戶中不乏一些奢侈品巨頭, Cartier Loewe 等品牌都懇請他在 Instagram 上向他的 68.3 萬名粉絲推廣它們的最新產品。他的粉絲多為年輕人(根據紅人平臺 HYPR 的數據,其 67% 的粉絲年齡在 19 歲至 32 歲之間)。

        Bryanboy 之前曾與 Saga 合作在社交媒體上推廣皮草。當 Saga 拍賣行再次聯系他時,他建議他們合作推出配飾系列上海YKK拉鏈,包括眼罩、手包和可拆卸衣領,靈感就來自他乘坐噴氣機飛來飛去的闊佬生活。(Saga Furs Bryanboy 均拒絕就合作的財務條款發表評論。)

        但與 Dior Montaigne 的包包不同,皮草的使用會引發兩極分化的態勢,尤其是社交媒體成了反皮草運動的中心。不過,Bryanboy 并不擔心會遭到強烈抵制。

        他說:“我經常穿皮草。令人驚訝的是,盡管整個政治立場都圍著它轉,我卻極少在我的社交媒體上看到任何相關評論。我有許多粉絲和朋友都非常支持皮草,他們知道我也喜歡皮草。”YKK樹脂拉鏈上海YKK拉鏈

        


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